Córdoba Eats: Taberna Salinas
Besides a Clif bar before anything was open and a pan con tomate y aceite in a cafe, Taberna Salinas was the only meal I had in Córdoba. I'll admit, I chose it based on a cursory browse through Tripadvisor on my iPad (got a Spanish SIM card for it right before I got on the bus in Valencia!). I have such positive thoughts about this place, mainly because of its warm and inviting service. You can see how many people want to eat here based on the crowd.
But the guy with glasses and a mustache below manages a list and directs people to their table. He'll let you know the wait time. I think the wait time can be over an hour long, so get there early. In Spain, that probably means something like 1:30pm!
The interior is eclectic and airy. The guy in the vest below I think is the head waiter. At least he was the guy who took my order, always smiling and polite.
I had read that there were a few things typical of Córdoba, and of Andalucía in general. Gazpacho is from Andalucía, and salmorejo is thick version (thickened with bread) from Córdoba. To be honest, I'm not sure about two things. First, do people really eat this in the wintertime? On some menus, I see that it's a seasonal item, and I would think something made from tomatoes and served cold would be a summertime food. Second, I wasn't sure if I was supposed to put the olive oil in the salmorejo, and use the bread and crackers to dip. Well, I just ate it with the spoon provided, and ate the delicious crackers separately!
Another dish I read about was flamenquín.
This is pork loin rolled around bacon, then breaded and deep fried. Mine was moist but not all that flavorful. The irregularly cut fries were nice but undersalted, while the cabbage salad was a bit oversalted though had a nice mustardy flavor.
Then to my surprise I got a complimentary glass of liqueur. When I asked my smiling waiter what its name was, he already had the answer written down on the back of his order pad: Pedro Ximénez, raisin sec! Very thick and very sweet!
Maybe I got it because they'd never seen a single diner put down so much food and then proceed to order dessert. I got natillas cordobesas, Cordoban pudding. It's pudding flavored with what I thought was nutmeg, but I read recipes that specify cinnamon. (I think it's the spice that makes it Cordoban!) And there's a cookie resting on top that becomes soft with the moisture from the pudding. Not too heavy, believe it or not.
I would definitely return and try some other dishes! One that I saw a lot of people ordering was rabo de toro, or oxtail stew, another Cordoban specialty.
As I left, I got many thank yous from the staff and the guy with a mustache. There is no way I would be confused with a local in Córdoba, and I just think it's outstanding when a restaurant treats an obvious tourist - and solo diner - with such service!
